Yellows and oranges and reds, oh my!

Ah, October. Without a doubt my favorite time of the year, when the mornings are cool and crisp but not yet cold…perfect for apple picking in the Shenandoah Valley, passing through rustic small towns, sipping hot cider. And, of course, getting some fall planting done, with a mind towards fall color in the garden, one last “hurrah” from nature before many shrubs and trees go to sleep for the winter.

I’ve put together a little slideshow featuring my top picks for plants that will light up the garden in shades of yellow, orange, and red. They are all native to the eastern U.S. and are easy to grow, and most of them are beneficial for wildlife as well. As long as temperatures stay above freezing, you can continue to plant.

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After a brief “paws”, garden work resumes

I have a legitimate excuse this time for the long gap between updates. My wife and I recently brought this cute little guy home:


So, as I’m sure you can imagine, the last two weeks have been spent getting him settled in. Mostly a lot of “no, don’t eat that” or “oh, I see you have to go potty right now.” It’s all good though, he’s very sweet and a lot of fun to have around!

But this has meant that work in the garden has been proceeding at a slower pace. Weeds got a little out of control while we were tending to little Orsillo. But, I managed to plant several different native perennials (Coneflower, Black Eyed Susans, and Yarrow) next to the deck, and as you can see, there is still a ton of space to fill in.


I’m going for a meadow/prairie look here, so I’ll likely add some ornamental grasses (like Schyzachyrium (Little Blue Stem) or Panicum (Switch Grass) as well as Monarda (Bee Balm) and Liatris (Gayfeather). All of these plants will benefit wildlife, in addition to (hopefully) choking out the Bermuda grass that constantly tries to creep in and take over everything.

Not far from this spot, the Arborvitae and Red Twig dogwoods I planted along the back of the house are looking great!


The dogwoods are beginning to flower; the blooms themselves are not particularly showy, but that’s just fine, because the berries are the real prize later in the summer. By late fall, the stems of the dogwoods are a bright red and will contrast nicely with the green of the Thuja I planted between them.


In the edible garden, we’ve been enjoying a steady flow of green beans, zucchini, and okra, with tomatoes just now starting to come in, and peppers, eggplant, cantaloupe and watermelon soon to follow. You can find pics of the vegetable garden and much more up on my Instagram page.

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A word about pruning crape myrtles

It never ceases to amaze me how many people buy crape myrtles without giving a thought to how big they’ll get in a short amount of time. I say this because I all-too-frequently am seeing crape myrtles being cut back way too hard in late winter and early spring, even by landscapers who ought to know better.


Hacking back crape myrtles to 3’ stumps not only results in the loss of blooms for the the next two, possibly three seasons, but produces new growth that is weaker and less cold hardy than the older wood that was cut away. Not to mention the unsightly “knobs” that form around where the trunk is repeatedly cut year after year.


If you’re finding that you have to prune back your crape myrtle that severely, then you’ve probably picked the wrong plant for that spot. But if you really don’t want to go without a crape myrtle, there are a growing number of new dwarf cultivars that stay smaller, many of them small shrubs rather than medium sized trees. These new cultivars include:

But in any case, it’s still a good idea to know how to properly prune crape myrtles. Ideally, you want to only remove broken branches, and branches that are crossing/rubbing up against each other, or facing inwards towards the center of the plant.


When finished, the crape myrtle should appear thinned out while still maintaining it’s natural shape and structure:


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Hey winter, take a hike! I’ve got planting to do

It’s been a long couple of weeks, waiting for old man winter to pack his bags and hit the road. Up until the last few days, mornings have been frigid with highs at or just below the freezing mark. Having learned a long time ago to temper my itch to start planting, I didn’t have to worry about any damage from our recent late frosts. In fact, I took advantage of the mild afternoons to get a lot of prep work done, in anticipation of spring finally arriving for real:

And after finishing up some hoeing and weeding the other day, I found one of the neighbor’s chickens roaming our back yard, pecking at bugs, seemingly unbothered by my presence.

Neighbors buff orpington on bug patrol in our yard

A video posted by Rudie V (@the_garden_dude) on Apr 16, 2016 at 3:24pm PDT


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The best of spring blooms: Asian magnolias

Few flowering trees are as magnificent in early spring as the Asian magnolias! Flowers emerge long before the leaves (anywhere from mid-February to late March depending on the weather), and many of them are quite fragrant. Most of the Asian species of Magnolias are large, upright shrubs or small trees, usually staying below 20’ at maturity (with the exception of Saucer magnolia, M. soulangiana, which eventually becomes a full sized shade tree). In return for their beautiful spring show, they do have some requirements to pay attention to when choosing one to plant in your yard or garden. They are very prone to flowering during an early spell of warm weather, only to be zapped by frost a few days later, though there are several hybrid cultivars that flower a little later in spring, thus generally avoiding damaging frosts. These are known as the “Little Girl” hybrids (look for cultivars with the names ‘Ann’, ‘Jane’, ‘Betty’, ‘Judy’, or ‘Susan’).  Magnolias do not like to be crowded up against other plants, performing much better in an open space with good air circulation in full sun. It’s also important to keep new plantings well watered the first year while they get established. Without further ado, here is a small sampling of Asian magnolias!

IMG_0482Magnolia acuminata ‘Butterflies’


Magnolia x ‘Jane’


Magnolia denudata

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Azaleas blooming, apple tree grafting

Took this shot today at work of one of our Exbury hybrid azaleas in full bloom. In addition to those stunning blooms, the fragrance is heavenly! Exbury azaleas are hybrids of several native deciduous azaleas that grow in the shady understory of the coastal plain and Piedmont of the Southeast.


This past weekend, one of Richmond’s local cideries hosted a workshop on how to graft apple trees. Grafting is the technique of taking the scion wood (top half) of a tree that produces the fruit you want, and attaching it to the root stock of a tree that is cold hardy/heat tolerant/disease resistant. All apple trees have to be propagated this way, since they do not breed true to type from seed.

Anyway, we were given two varieties for the scion wood (old heirlooms, Albemarle Black and Golden Pearmead) to graft onto the root stock of the dependable Red Delicious. It took me some time to get the angle of the cut just right, as the thin layer of tissue on both pieces of stem have to line up very closely, with maximum contact giving you the best chance of the graft “taking.” Two cuts on my finger and what seemed like fifteen attempts later, I had two apple seedlings with successful grafts. Both are now planted in the back yard, with a homemade fence around them to keep the deer and other critters away.



The trees are still many years away from bearing, but that’s a small price to pay for having apples to pick within a stone’s throw of the back door!

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Even with a degree, always more to learn!

On Friday I had the opportunity to sit in on a series of lectures put on by the Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services and the Virginia Extension service at Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens. The lectures were part of ongoing education to help licensed pesticide applicators maintain their certification. I don’t have my license just yet…I’m waiting for VDACS authorization to take the test but the information was valuable nevertheless. The topics included:

  • Pesticide laws and regulatory updates
  • Pesticides and storm water runoff
  • Managing and preventing the spread of boxwood blight
  • Protecting our pollinators
  • Safe and Effective pesticide applications
  • Preventing fungicide resistance

I wanted to share some of my notes from these lectures, as the information can be just as helpful and applicable to homeowners who use pesticides, not just landscapers/lawn care businesses.

Pesticide Laws and Regulatory Updates

  • Pesticide Collection Program
    • Residents and businesses bring their unwanted pesticides to a central collection site where the pesticide is properly disposed of
    • Each year, the collection sites move around the different regions of the state; this year, collection is taking place in the northwestern counties of Virginia along the Valley up towards Winchester.
  • Pesticide Container Recycling
    • Similar to the collection program, but for disposing/recycling of pesticide containers that have already been used up and the container rinsed out properly
    • List of participating localities can be found here
  • *NEW* this year: pesticide label change to include a “bee advisory”
    • Prohibits use of pesticides when pollinators are present
    • Highlights importance of avoiding pesticide drift, either by wind or runoff

Pesticides and Storm Water Runoff

  • Always follow label directions for use and storage
  • Ensure that any excess pesticide residue soaks into the soil rather than running off down paved surfaces into sewer drains, drainage ditches, etc.
  • Use the least toxic solution when possible
  • Time applications to avoid rain
  • Triple rinse containers after using up the pesticide; make use of VDACS disposal/recycling program

Protecting Our Pollinators

  • Colony Collapse Disorder comprised of multiple factors; no single cause identified
    • Varcoa mite (parasite)
    • Chemical residue/pesticides
    • Bee pathogens/disease
    • Other colony stressors
  • Can’t focus on just honeybees; plenty of native bees and other pollinators need our help as well
    • Beetles
      • Very effective pollinators thanks to their “messy” habit of collecting/carrying pollen
      • Attracted to large, white, fragrant blooms like Southern Magnolia, Gardenia, etc.
    • Native bees
      • Often do a better job of pollinating crops than the imported honeybee, upwards of $10 billion worth of crops
      • Bumble bees
        • Social, ground nesters
        • Very valuable in greenhouse/hoop house agricultural pollination
        • 45 to 60 workers can cover 5000 square feet
      • Blueberry bees
        • Very efficient pollinators
        • One female can pollinate 50,000 blooms resulting in around 6000 blueberries
        • Only active when blueberry bushes are in bloom
      • Leafcutter/Orchard mason bee
        • Used in many fruit orchards (almonds, cherries, peaches, etc.)
        • Mason bee uses mud to line nest, leafcutter cuts pieces of leaves (hence the name) to line nests
    • How to help bees
      • Follow the pesticide label! Spray in the morning or late evening when bees are least active
      • Provide a water source, and leave a clearing of dirt or mud
      • Install a “bee house” (

Boxwood Blight

  • Brown dots on leaves, can quickly defoliate large chunks of a plant
  • Spreads very easily via wind, going plant to plant with unsterilized shears/pruners, and even just casual contact with plants
  • Good drainage and air circulation critical to boxwood health
  • English boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) most susceptible to blight
  • Asian species (Buxus microphylla and Buxus sinica var. insularis) most resistant, particularly ‘Green Beauty’ cultivar

Safe and Effective Pesticide Applications

  • Pay attention to the signal words:
    • “Caution” – lowest level of danger/toxicity
    • “Warning” – moderate level of danger/toxicity
    • “Danger”/Poison – highest level of danger/toxicity
  • PPE = Personal Protective Equipment
    • Long sleeve shirt/pants with sox
    • Chemical resistant gloves and boots/shoes
    • Coveralls/apron/respirator for pesticides with “warning” and “danger” signal words
  • Handling spills
    • The three “C”s
      • Control – shut off the source of the spill
      • Contain – prevent the spilled substance from spreading
      • Clean Up – remove the spilled substance
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